Ball Python Care Guide

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 When choosing an enclosure for your ball python, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, the size of the enclosure should be appropriate for your snake's size. As mentioned earlier, a 20-gallon tank is suitable for a juvenile ball python, but an adult will need a 40-gallon tank or larger. The enclosure should be escape-proof, with a secure lid that allows for adequate ventilation and we recommend covering the sides and back if keeping your snake in a glass enclosure. You can use a screen lid or a lid with small ventilation holes. Ball pythons are arboreal, so they will appreciate a vertical setup with branches or vines to climb on. Make sure to provide at least one hide box on each end of the enclosure, so your snake can have a warm hide and a cool hide. The hide box should be snug-fitting and big enough for your snake to curl up in comfortably. 

 Ball pythons are cold-blooded, which means they rely on external sources of heat to regulate their body temperature. A basking spot with a temperature of 88-92°F during the day and a cooler side of the enclosure that is 75-80°F is necessary for your ball python's health. At night, the temperature can drop to 75-80°F. Use a heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter to provide heat during the day, and a low-wattage bulb or under-tank heating pad to maintain the temperature at night. No matter what heating source you choose, YOU MUST USE A THERMOSTAT or you will burn your pet. It is also an option to provide a UVB light to help with vitamin D synthesis. The UVB light should be on for 10-12 hours a day and replaced every six months. Be sure to keep the light at least 6 inches away from your snake's basking spot, as too much UVB exposure can cause eye damage. 

 Ball pythons are carnivorous and will eat frozen-thawed mice or rats. The size of the prey should be appropriate for your snake's size, and it's important to use tongs to avoid accidental bites and to monitor your snake while they are eating. To make sure you can upsize food as your pet grows we recommend feeding rats, but some snakes may prefer Mice. Juveniles should be fed every 5-7 days, while adults can be fed every 7-10 days. Some ball pythons may refuse food during the breeding season, so don't be alarmed if your snake goes off food for a few weeks.  

 Provide a large water dish that is big enough for your ball python to soak in. Change the water daily and keep it clean to prevent bacteria growth. Make sure to provide fresh water daily, and don't be alarmed if your snake occasionally defecates in their water bowl. 

 Ball pythons are generally docile and handleable, but it's important to give your snake time to settle in before handling them too much. We recommend you wait to handle until after they have eaten their first meal in their new home. Always support your snake's body when handling them. Also, make sure to wash your hands before and after handling your snake to avoid the spread of bacteria. Ball pythons can become stressed if handled too much or too often, so make sure to give your snake plenty of time to rest between handling sessions. 

 At The first sight of any illness it is important to take your pet to a veterinarian As soon as possible. Some signs may be, but not limited to, Sudden Changes in Behavior; Lethargy; whistling or wheezing while breathing; not eating for extended periods of time; discharge from nostrils, heat pits, or mouth; dull color; Soft or Discolored Scales; Lesions